I ALMOST DANCED FOR THE PRESIDENT OF GUINEA

Alright, “almost” is a bit of a stretch.

Well maybe a big stretch. 

But there was a moment or six when I thought (translation “FEARED”) that Alciny was serious.  In all honesty maybe he was serious when he pointed to Don and said “You play” and did the drumming motion with his hands, and turned to me and said “You dance” and did the hippy shaky thing we had come to use to convey “dance.”

It was a big day on the island of Kassa as President Alpha Conde was coming for some sort of official acknowledgement that there was to be a commercial ferry from Conakry to Kassa, replacing the current independently run wooden boats where 40-50 people sat shoulder to shoulder, hip to hip on wooden slats to make the 25 minute trip. 

In the midst of our morning drum lesson, the response to the sound of a helicopter approaching was reminiscent of the 1978-1984 TV series “Fantasy Island”. For a moment everything stopped. Then as if on cue people turned and started heading toward the boat docks – much like Tattoo pronouncing “It’s the plane” and people appearing out of nowhere to greet the visitors.  As we traipsed up the hill and through the village the mass of folks grew, gathering uniformed school children excited to be let out early and adults dressed in their finest.  At the sound of the helicopter the urgency in getting to the dock was palpable overriding any thought of grabbing a camera or bottle of water. After all, we didn’t want to be late for the President.
  

Once there we met with ordered disorder.  The President did not appear to have arrived. Canopies had been erected over rows of plastic patio chairs.  A separate area was home to a living room couch and matching chairs set in a U-shape complete with a flower adorned coffee table.  Armed soldiers strolled around herding children into undefined corrals.  Crowds of folks were shifted from one side to the other.  During this time Alciny reiterated the drum/dance proclamations and while Don seemed excited at the prospect I was hoping he was kidding. My attempts at African dancing were gleefully encouraged by Don, and met with smiles and encouragement from the Kassa natives, but I had no illusions about what I looked like – middle aged not so athletic white woman in army green shorts and a T-shirt trying to keep time with drum rhythms that were being played at ¼ their normal speed. Not feeling like presidential material to me.

Fortunately – for me and I trust the other few hundred that had gathered – with all the hurry up and wait and shifting of people as different needs pulled us in different directions, we became separated from Alciny.  The day grew hotter, the crowds shifted, waves of anticipation ebbing and flowing.  The recorded dance club techno music gave way to sound of islanders playing drums. Perhaps this meant the President had arrived? Uh, no not yet.

We craned our heads and saw that Alciny was among the drummers and that two island women dressed in beautiful West African dresses were dancing up a storm.  The crowd was re-energized and I was mesmerized – how did their bodies do such full movements so quickly and in sync with each other?  How did their headwraps stay on? Their dance had been practiced for decades, something they could do on autopilot, yet there was nothing mechanical about the passion their bodies expressed.  I was enchanted.  The crowd shifted and I lost my view, but could feel their energy as the sounds of the drums still made their way into me.

Eventually the President showed up making me think that some things are universal – high profile folks not able to stick to schedules and a bunch of OTHER folks doing introductory comments further delaying what everyone had been waiting for.  What did surprise me was the seemingly little security, very unlike here in the US.  And there was the added nice touch of the Presidential staff/aids handing out bottled water to the crowd – not something I have witnessed here at home.

So though I didn't understand a word that was said by any of the officials, I did understand the dance and the drums and the excitement of the President’s visit and in my imagination I, too danced.