For
the first time in my life I think I had a glimmer of what it must have been
like for my grandparents when they left Italy and landed at Ellis Island. I had listened to their tales as well as read
descriptions of immigrants trying to find their way in new lands.
There we were standing at the water’s edge in Conakry with hundreds of other folks, on New Year’s Eve Day. Tex had arranged for us to be transported to the Island of Room, where we would ring in the New Year among folks we had yet to meet. Even with Tex’s expert assistance, I was discombobulated as negotiations took place which I couldn't follow. The seesaw of starting and stopping, hurry up and wait, left me wondering if we were indeed going to get to Room.
I
couldn't help but wonder if this is what it feels like for folks waiting to
board a ship to emigrate to a foreign country or upon arrival feeling
completely lost. Was this brief
experience we were having a taste of what my grandparents went through? Being in a strange land, not speaking the
language, nor understanding the customs, and being at the mercy of those who
seem to be in charge? Trying to find the balance of not being taken
advantage of while not pissing off the officials?
Much
chaos, being shuffled from one spot to another and then back again – this boat
that boat yes no wait come - loud voices
getting louder as we failed to respond to words we didn't understand, animated
gestures trying to fill in where words had no impact.
The saving grace for us was that we could indeed bale out at any time
before getting on the boat. We had charge cards and could walk back to the
“European Hotel” where they spoke English and get a room for the night. My grandparents and many immigrants who come
to this country don’t have that option and genuinely are at the mercy of
others.
But
we wanted to go to the island of Room, a little bit further off the mainland
than Kassa. It was New Year’s Eve and we
had paid for a boat ride, a party and a place to sleep for the night.
In
the midst of scurrying around, picking up our belongings again and following
yet another person out onto the pier, seeing more gestures and hearing more unknown words,
there came a familiar yet out of place sound: in perfect English a voice asked
“may I share your boat?” It wasn't until
much later that I came to understand that we had actually paid to charter a
boat and therefore could determine who else shared our boat. This woman, a German ex-pat who had lived on
Room for at least a decade was trying to get back to the island and wanted to
hitch a ride with us.
More
flurry and movement and then we were walking through the garbage strewn water
and being hoisted onto a boat. As we pulled away from Conakry the din and
confusion gave way to the gentle rhythmic lapping of the water.
Sabine
–our German hitchhiker – turned out to be a font of knowledge, and became our
tour guide of sorts. Grateful to have a ride home she was eager to make it worth our while…..She
pointed out sights, explained the off-shore foreign fishing boats and their
impact on the local economy, told her personal tale and intervened when our
captain, T-boy, tried to charge us extra
for our life jackets. As we approached
Room she explained the different folks who had settled on different parts of
the island, and how to get to the village in which she lived, should we want to
explore.
Initial
relief at landing on the island and finding our way to our lodging blossomed
into wonder and delight as we were shown our room and offered dinner. The earlier confusion at the dock in Conakry
faded as the hospitality of the people we met on Room took hold. And while my grandparents had it a lot harder
for a lot longer than I did this New Year’s Eve, I remembered snippets of stories
of people who extended themselves to my grandparents as they found their way in
America, the kindness of strangers so very welcome.
This is a comment my friend Amy sent me and asked me to post, as she was unable to do so. Thanks Amy!
ReplyDeleteWow, Lydia, I so loved reading through this. I loved the references to your grandparents and what it must be like to travel to and arrive in a new country and not speak the language. I have memories that my grandmother shared with me as well about her trip from Poland through Ellis Island and living in NY in 1918 as WW1 was soon to be raging. Last night I went to see the movie The Immigrant which you may enjoy seeing. Keep up the great writing ...
love you!
Amy