Kalifa
had told us that most of his siblings had died and that each year when he
returns to Guinea at least one of his friends is no longer alive. He even said that he would take us to the
best drum maker – unless he had died since Kalifa’s last trip home.
This
place we visited seemed a place of opposites or maybe discordant things is a
better choice of words. While there I
learned in bits and pieces about the things that I believe contribute to shortened
lifespan.
Our
first time crossing the water, we waded through the surf to mount the boat. I
later realized that the bathrooms in the Obama café, our touchstone in Conakry,
emptied directly into the surf. Never
again did I walk through the water which also had rusted metal objects embedded
in the floor, though for the folks who lived there it was routine to do so.
Although
marveling at the way women and young children carried loads on their heads, it
does make we wonder that if despite correct posture, etc., the cumulative
effects over time are compressed vertebrae.
Does sleeping on the ground or on a mat as thin as a towel on concrete
or tile ebb away at one’s skeleton and cause degeneration of bones?
We
drank bottled water, but the water we bathed in came from uncovered wells with
openings at ground level allowing easy access for dirt, garbage – whatever
happened to be rolling by. As such I
decided not to shave my legs while there, thinking that if I nicked myself I
was opening myself to being vulnerable
for disease. But the folks who lived
there drank the well water…. Are they immune to the contaminants or is it a
role of the dice?
When
we were giving out toys Kalifa pointed out some kids with distended bellies and
he commented that they have parasites.
Not sure if that was treatable or contagious I kept my distance. It was such a challenge for me to not be
welcoming of small children who grabbed my legs or wanted to snuggle up on my
lap. Not knowing if runny noses and eyes
were “common” colds or something more serious, something that my immune system
was not prepared for, I stayed at arm’s length.
The children who did make their way onto my lap seemed fine, but who’s to know?
The
food, cooked outdoors over a wok shaped item filled with charcoal, simmered for
hours and our guess was that was an
effort to kill any harmful organisms that may have been present in the unrefrigerated
meats and fish. I stuck to rice and
veggies – deliciously flavored I might add.
There were times when Don said the meal’s protein tasted suspect and he
found ways to avoid eating it.
I
still can’t wrap my head around the fact that in a place where people travel by
car and have smart phones that they don’t have safe drinking water, their
average life expectancy is 55 years and there is the very real expectation that if you haven't seen someone in awhile they might be dead.
As
I write this - in August 2014 – over 1500 people have died from Ebola in 4 West
African countries including Guinea, and there are an additional 3000 reported infected people. The first case was reported shortly after we returned to the United States.
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